Pitti Fragranze 22 and Florence -Danu Seith-Fyr
Half 2 of my in depth Pitti Fragranze 22 expertise and as I put together to depart for Cannes for an additional perfume-filled days and nights I really feel immense gratitude to a part of this fragrance world and to have the ability to share these moments with you all. (Half one right here)
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Antonio Alessandria and Danu, Pluvia Sacra, Francesca Dell’Oro and Danu, Else fragrance, Mendittorosa sales space and Cristian Marianciuc – Danu Seith-Fyr Pitti Fragranze 22
After just a few years absence with a sales space, I used to be so happy to see Antonio Alessandria, this 12 months he was giving us a quick glimpse into his latest addition to an already spectacular assortment. Perfumes impressed by reminiscences, love, locations and folks near his house and coronary heart. There have been two names for this new fragrance and all of the guests at Pitti Fragranze 22 had been invited to write down down their alternative. Ultimately the title chosen is Pluvia Sacra and I can inform you that preliminary expertise was unbelievable, earthy and deeply entrenched in all pure scents we discover revitalising, it additionally yielded up a eroticism, I’m trying ahead to its launch. There may be, in fact a historic story linked to Pluvia Sacra. Antonio additionally launched a fragrance he created for KV by Kateryna Vel’menko, ‘A Little bit Hazelnutty’ – a scrumptious and wild romp by way of the gourmand notes. KV was one of many manufacturers I didn’t make it too however I’ve each intention of exploring them.
I had been launched to Francesca Dell’Oro at Esxence and had the prospect to attempt the primary 2 perfumes in a quartet of vanilla designed to put on at completely different moments of the day. So right here at Pitti Fragranze 22 had been the final two of the gathering, Vanille 1800 and Vanille 24.00. 18.00 is impressed by the passing of routine day into twilight, the altering of cotton shirts for silken robes, an exhalation of honeyed florals. 24.00 is sensual and daring, below cowl of evening we embrace our extra intimate selves. Each are a becoming conclusion to the ‘All Day Vanilla Assortment’. I used to be utterly bowled nevertheless over by the invention of ‘Else’, impressed by Arthur Schniztler’s Miss Else and created by perfumer Michele Marin and gained the Russian Fifi Award Creative Area of interest Fragrance in 2023, why did it take me so lengthy to find. An absolute gem, that may be a traditional in its personal period, it’ll go down as probably the greatest of the 21st century, a floral voluptuousness topped in spices, simply superb. A devil-may-care infusion of many lives inside a lifetime.
Jonathan Dufour- Spiritum Paris, Federic and Agapito of Naso di Raza, Lydeen Perfumes – Danu Seith-Fyr
I met with Jonathan Dufour, the charismatic founding father of Spiritum Paris and following scorching on the heels of the Masters Assortment and 36 Jacob, is an upcoming launch Tantricism, nicely the title denotes a clue, I shall remark extra after its launch, suffice to say it’s fairly fascinating. See my evaluate of The Masters Assortment right here.
Federica and Agapito all the time give me such a heat welcome to Naso di Raza, an Italian model I’ve spoken of earlier than with nice admiration, ‘Use Black’ is one thing I put on typically with nice pleasure, they’re the epitome of Italian class and appeal as ever and so they spoke to me of an upcoming launch, hopefully by the tip of the 12 months, Graffio, which in Italian means ‘scratch’. Federica has promised to inform me extra about why it’s has such a curious title quickly.
I made an absolute beeline for Lydeen, a Swedish model previously generally known as ‘Agonist’. Previously I had been an avid collector of Agonist perfumes, they had been very trendy and edgy, throwing shards of uncooked perceptions and giving me a lot pause for thought. So, after I discovered that Christine and Niclas Lydeen had rebirthed a model, I used to be in a rush to find them. I’ve had the prospect to pattern a whole lot of their assortment a few of that are based mostly on the earlier Agonist perfumes, however at Pitti Fragranze 22 I sampled the whole assortment together with upcoming releases not but obtainable and was capable of meet their Gross sales Supervisor Zoe Lu. Some names to look out for and imagine me I used to be as soon as once more smitten, Reminiscence of No person, Liquid Aria, Indigo Land and Flamme Douce. A model to observe most definitely
Stefania Squeglia of Mendittorosa and I’ve been kindred spirits for a superb a few years now so I used to be delighted to see her again at Pitti Fragranze after an extended break, her perfumes are thought of and wealthy in inspiration and crafted with time and charm, her sales space an absolute haven of peace and calm interspersed with artwork and imagery to calm the senses that invited us to stillness together with her newest creation, ‘Mauna’, a collaboration between Stefania and Perfumer Cristiano Canali. An ode to the stillness and the motion inside silence, right here is majestic sandalwood elevated to rarefied heights, in its noblest guise. A devotional chant with out sound, uttered on immovable lips and rippling outwards to softly embody humanity. In residence at Pitti Fragranze 22, quietly crafted in his signature type, quite a few lotus flowers in origami was former Senior Contributor and artist Cristian Marianciuc, recognized for his stunning fragrance impressed cranes.
Meo Fusciuni – Giuseppe, Danu and Fede – Danu Seith-Fyr.
A short encounter with my expensive buddies Giuseppe Imprezzabile and Federica Caste – Meo Fusciuni, its all the time so pretty to see them and to listen to the newest information of a brand new fragrance, Buio – that means Darkish. I might be assembly with Meo and Fede in Cannes to be launched to this new journey.
Yousuf Al Qanai and Soul Of Makeen, Flavius Calaj and Danu, Husen Baba – Azman – Danu Seith-Fyr
I had been lucky sufficient to satisfy with Soul Of Makeen founder and artistic director, Yousuf Al Qanai on the great Paris Fragrance Week final March and now at Pitti Fragranze 22 I had the chance to spend extra time with him and the gathering. He’s an orator, educated in historical past, legend and tales, woven into all the gathering which has deep that means and profound insights. Each element is wealthy in symbolism. Makeen means ‘King of Desires’ the three collections, The Love Assortment, The Caravan Assortment and The Royya Assortment. I learnt a lot and located one other to whom the concord of magnificence is all.
Its all the time great to satisfy up with Grasp Perfumer Olivier Cresp of Akro, (once more I hope to see him in Cannes), I had the prospect to attempt ‘Glow’, the latest launch, brimming with stylish confidence and ‘Smile’, a fragrance of happiness. Flavius Calaj of Calaj Perfumes is an infectious human, within the sense of his dynamism, vitality and heat, it’s all the time my pleasure to reconnect with him. After a 12 months during which he has modified the bottles of his assortment, modern and stylish and the discharge of the singularly divine Delizia Oscura, an intoxicating chocolate and violet, Flavius hinted at a brand new gourmand launch coming quickly, extra gourmand than gourmand if that’s in any respect doable.
I had a gathering with Husen Baba of Azman to get my nostril on ‘Bare Forest’ by Prin Lomos. A spectacular immersion in nature shot by way of with all of the nuances of inexperienced and earthy tones. Right here is not only a stroll in forests however a deep dive into its very cloth, it really works its manner below your pores and skin and there’s no extra separation. Learn Ida Meister’s evaluate right here.
Grasp Perfumer Olivier Cresp and Danu – Danu Seith-Fyr
It’s all the time great to satisfy up with Grasp Perfumer Olivier Cresp of Akro, once more I hope to see him in Cannes, I had the prospect to attempt ‘Glow’, the latest launch, brimming with stylish confidence and ‘Smile’, a fragrance of happiness.
Caroline Pelissier- Racyne, Perfumer h – Saddle and assortment, Bilan Besen and Regalien – Danu Seith-Fyr
I used to be completely satisfied to see Caroline Pelissier once more, founding father of Racyne current right here at their first Pitti Fragranze 22, I together with many others are picked out Racyne at Paris Fragrance Week as a brand new model to look out for. Unassuming and with a Parisian stylish, no have to shout when you may have such stunning perfumes. Dedicated additionally to vegan, clear and ethically sourced packaging, Caroline has curated a line of very attention-grabbing, minimalist perfumes. Private favorites are Verdeur, Quelque Half – a rare musk and La Terre, La Nuit.
Earlier than I transfer on to occasions inside and out of doors Pitti Fragranze 22, moments to share of fragrance manufacturers new to me, and of connecting with outdated buddies.
I had been a part of a improvement course of just a few years in the past with Jorum Studio from Edinburgh, Scotland referred to as Psychoterrica, Euan McCall and Chloe had launched these 3 perfumes earlier this 12 months, below new names, in very restricted portions. I used to be capable of odor Monolith, which was an instantaneous hit with me for its smokiness and peaty high quality which I’m drawn to a lot in single malt whiskey and Opaline a musk, with diaphanous sides that throws off mirrors and reflections. Hopefully these could grow to be obtainable once more within the close to future. Plus, assembly Chloe every time is all the time a possibility to smile.
A repeat encounter with Giuseppe from Perfumer H was a pleasure, we had met within the Paris retailer and now at Pitti Fragranze 22. He kindly launched me to the brand new fragrance, Saddle, not a leather-based as you would possibly anticipate however one thing way more nuanced and the scent of the sensation of that top high quality glove sitting subsequent to your pores and skin, moulded tightly to every finer exaggerating its slender factors and nice type, are you able to think about that? I want Guiseppe all one of the best as he strikes to different fields which I can reveal at a later date.
Baruti Perfumes, Sizzling Cotton, Mono_no_aware and Laurakimou – Danu Seith-Fyr
It was nice to see Dr. Spyros Drosopoulos of Baruti perfumes and to have the ability to pattern once more his new releases from Esxence, two of that are standouts for me, Sizzling Cotton, utterly acquainted but so compelling and Mono No Conscious, a Japanese impressed gourmand with signature Baruti type and panache.
New Discoveries at Pitti Fragranze 22
Bilan Besen the co-founder of Regalien from Turkey, created in 2016 gave generously of his time to introduce me to the manufacturers in depth assortment, a number of of which I discovered instantly seized my consideration. I’m trying ahead to exploring additional.
Sora Dora Perfumes and founder Quentin Dorado
Sora Dora was fairly a revelation; their assortment included some fairly distinctive and albeit shocking perfumes. I’m in touch with Founder Quentin Dorado as there may be a lot, rather more to discover. Of observe, Sora Dora, a household model with Portuguese and Provencal roots that return over a century, launched in 2021. It’s no marvel they hit the mark with so a lot of their assortment together with the Jovoy Paris unique, RED, Jany, Mallow, Broceliande and Kamal Oud instantly took my curiosity.
An apart, a skincare assortment that deserves a point out for the purity and authenticity of its product but additionally of its founder, Alexandre Styker. La Reine Capricieuse works with pure elements and particularly honey and bee merchandise.
Installations and Occasions
The Sound of Perfume Set up – Noise and Silence – Danu Seith-Fyr
The immersive set up this 12 months at Pitti Fragranze 22 was on the theme of The Sound of Perfume, of Noise and Silence. Gentle, music and fragrance created the sensory panorama. Tunnels crammed with crimson tones of pulsating lights ushered us into the room of Noise, Resonessence fragrance created by Cristiano Canali after which into one other tunnel immersed in blue tones, the fragrance SSSHHH, Le Parfum Parle by Sonia Fixed. An attention-grabbing voyage of sensory overload in opposing instructions.
Osmoart and OZparfum – Pierre Benard Segu and Veronica Granatiero, the voice of Lilith fragrance – Danu Seith-Fyr
An occasion with Perfumer Pierre Benard Segu of Osmoart and OZparfum and soprano Veronica Granatiero, ‘Take heed to the Scents – Breathe the Music’. Pierre offered us a mess of connections between scent and sound. Pierre additionally launched his newest creation, Lilith, a singularly evocative and sensually addictive, highly effective tuberose elixir that beguiles and entices, Veronica interpretated this liquid invocation with a strong intonation, a stupendous voice misplaced in an ecstasy that arose out of Lilith posed on her wrist, definitely a fragrance of nice energy and a transportive voice to match. It was my honour to buy a bottle of Lilith, the porcelain vessel a sensual because the essence inside. It’s a 21st century masterpiece.
Friday night noticed the cocktail occasion within the outdoors courtyard of Pitti Fragranze reinstated for the welcome of the model Ajmal into the fold of Kaon Distribution and to have fun Kaon’s presence at Pitti Fragranze for the final 22 years. Music and cocktails completed off this primary day properly.
Cocktail occasion at Beast Gallery, Florence to have fun launch with Michele Marin Essenza – Danu Seith-Fyr
Michele Marin held a cocktail occasion and occasion at Beast Gallery in Florence, a possibility to combine and mingle, share the attention-grabbing installations for Michele’s new assortment, Michel Marin Essenza and to congratulate him on this glorious new enterprise.
Ermano Picco, Karen Marin, Pissara Umavijani- Parfums Dusita, Angelos Balamis, Romain Sanchez – Home of Helios Danu Seith-Fyr
Conferences with Pissara Umavijani of Parfums Dusita together with Karen Marin of Essencional, our very personal Editor Ermano Picco at numerous talks and after occasions, Meo Fuscuini – Guiseppe Imprezzabile and Federica,(to be continued in Cannes), probability moments with Francesca Bianchi, Luca Maffei, Romain Sanchez of Home of Helios, Angelos Balamis from Angelos Creations Olfactive, a quick encounters and engaging conversations with perfumer and architect Antonio Gardoni (who composed OOOH for ÇaFleureBon’s tenth anniversary in 2020, Perfumer Cristiano Canali, Piotr Romanski and Viktor Wilk from Wolf Brothers. Shared moments of delight with Angela Ciampagna, Enrico, Angela Ciampagna and Label and David Mencey – Kiliquia and Sriman Subramanian from Sasva Parfums.
My thanks once more to the organizers and to all of the crew of Pitti Fragranze for such an exquisite 3 days, to all of the manufacturers and perfumers, my gratitude additionally for samples obtained.
Danu Seith-Fyr, Contributor
